It’s that time of year when you’re looking at your cheap wheel mtb
,thinking about what you can do to upgrade your rig.Well, nothing impacts the performance of your bike more than a fresh set of solid hoops! Yes sir,you will be amazed how much your present set has lost its snappy response.In fact,after two seasons your wheels are more tired than you think.
Wheels endure unrelenting compression and tension cycles as they roll. Add in the lateral force placed on them,and you can imagine the beating your wheels take.Unlike a frame,the wheels feel everything:every little root,rock,boulder,huck to flat,or crash into a tree.
The wheel market is currently booming:everyone and their brother is producing at least a couple of sets.Some wheels are good… and some are not so good.
Rims
A couple of thoughts on rim selection:
Typical mid- to high-end wheels use 6000- or 7000-series alloy for rim construction.Stay away from single wall rims that are sometimes found on lower-end bikes.If you’re upgrading,double wall is the way to go.Spoke holes can be drilled with seats so no eyelets are needed,or drilled with inserted eyelets.I personally think a properly aligned spoke hole drilled and and seated does not require an eyelet.
Rim width dictates maximum tire size.For example,a 19mm (inside measurement from bead to bead) rim would work with tires up to 2.2 inches. Rims that are 21mm in width work well with tires from 2.2″ to 2.4″,and 23mm+ work well with tires greater than 2.3″.There are some massive rims that get up to a 31mm inside width.Do you need them? Unless you can honestly say “I ride the Rampage,”you’re not in that league of rim.
Custom Wheels
You also have the option of building your own set or having them custom made. That way, you can choose the rim, spokes, nipples, and hubs you want. For a true match to your bike, a wheel builder will ask common questions like your weight, what kind of riding you generally do, your ability, and your budget.
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